This was from an issue of The Surfer’s Journal a while back. One of the things I enjoy about surfing is the opportunities it provides to explore. Looking for good waves with no one around reminds me of how I used to feel as a kid pretending to be an explorer or pioneer. It reminds me adventure is still out there. It reminds me there is more to life.
I spent hours driving the Irish coastline looking for waves. The weather was harsh and the ocean temperamental, but it was a trip I will always remember fondly…and I didn’t even surf for the first half of it. During one of many surf checks that ultimately ended up with me drinking coffee instead of surfing, I came across the ruins of this old castle, the Irish flag waving stiff in the mild gale. It wasn’t a bad day.