Irish surf legend John McCarthy shares some wisdom. John was a pioneer in the Irish big wave movement and shares some of what he’s learned along the way in maintaining a balanced life.
This was from an issue of The Surfer’s Journal a while back. One of the things I enjoy about surfing is the opportunities it provides to explore. Looking for good waves with no one around reminds me of how I used to feel as a kid pretending to be an explorer or pioneer. It reminds me adventure is still out there. It reminds me there is more to life.